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Touch sensitivity is also integrated into each display, and this allows you to set the focus point among other things. However, whereas the displays on the E-M10 II and E-M1 can be tilted, the E-M5 II s display is a vari-angle screen mounted via a side hinge. This means that it can be adjusted to a broader range of positions than the other two. Olympus OM-D E-M10 II vs E-M5 II vs E-M1 Burst rate. Burst shooting is one area where each camera offers something slightly different.
The E-M10 II manages to shoot at 8. 5fps for up to 22 Raw frames, while both the E-M5 II and the E-M1 manage a faster 10fps burst-shooting option although the E-M5 II has an even faster 11fps setting in a silent-shutter mode. The E-M5 II promises 16 Raw frames at its standard 10fps speed, while the E-M1 almost triples this to 41 Raw frames although you can increase this depth at slower burst speeds.
When continuous autofocus is enabled, the E-M1 will carry on focusing at a rate of 9fps while the E-M5 II will do so at a slower rate of 5fps, and the E-M10 II at a slightly slower 4fps. When set to record JPEGs instead of Raw files, each camera can maintain its maximum burst rate up to the capacity of the card in use. Of course, in order to achieve these depths, you need to make sure your memory card is well specified. Olympus OM-D E-M10 II vs E-M5 II vs E-M1 Video.
No 4K video on any of these cameras here instead, you get Full HD 1,920 x 1,080 at a choice of frame rates on each. Being launched closer together, the E-M10 II and E-M5 II offered a broader range of frame rates and compression options than the E-M1, together with time coding and a 4K time-lapse mode, although a recent firmware update brought much of this functionality to the E-M1. One thing the E-M10 II offers that the others don t, however, is the option to record footage at up to 120fps for slow-motion playback.
Olympus OM-D E-M10 II vs E-M5 II vs E-M1 Focusing systems. All three models feature a contrast-detect AF system with 81 points in total, although the E-M1 augments this with a separate 37-point phase-detect AF system. This works with all Micro Four Thirds lenses and makes the camera better suited to tracking subjects as they move around the scene. The E-M10 II also features an AF Targeting pad option, which lets you select the AF point via the touchscreen as you use the viewfinder.
Olympus OM-D E-M10 II vs E-M5 II vs Iq option e seguro Weather sealing. Olympus claims that the bodies of both the E-M1 and E-M5 II are freeze proof down to -10oc and protected against dust and splashes, although you ll need to ensure the lens you use is similarly weather sealed to gain maximum protection.
Not surprisingly for a junior model, the E-M10 II lacks weather-sealing of any sort. Olympus OM-D E-M10 II vs E-M5 II vs E-M1 Viewfinder. All three cameras feature electronic viewfinders, each with a 2. 36million-dot resolution. However, while the E-M1 and E-M5 II make use of LCD panels here, the newer E-M10 II adopts an OLED display instead.
Magnification on the viewfinders of both the E-M1 and E-M5 II is 1. 48x, which equates to 0. 74x in 35mm terms roughly the same as certain full-frame DSLRs. The E-M10 II, meanwhile, has a slightly smaller maximum 1. 23x magnification, or around 0. 62x in 35mm terms. Olympus OM-D E-M10 II vs E-M5 II vs E-M1 Card slots. All three models are alike in that they are built with a single slot that accepts SDHC and SDXC memory cards.
The only real difference between them is that the newest E-M10 II provides support for both UHS I and UHS II cards, whereas the others only support the former. Olympus OM-D E-M10 II vs E-M5 II vs E-M1 Flash. The E-M10 II has its own flash built into its body. The other two do not, but both ship with a small external unit that slips into each camera s hot shoe. Olympus OM-D E-M10 II vs E-M5 II vs E-M1 Flash Sync socket. The E-M10 II is the only camera from the trio not to offer a flash sync socket.
Olympus OM-D E-M10 II vs E-M5 II vs E-M1 Battery life. Olympus promises that the E-M5 II s battery will last for up to 310 frames on a single charge as standard, while the E-M10 II will go on for 320 and the E-M1 for 350 frames. This situation changes, however, when battery grips are used where possible and power management settings adjusted.
Olympus OM-D E-M10 II vs E-M5 II vs E-M1 Audio in and out. Although the E-M10 provides a good level of control over video recording, one thing it does not offer is a mic input for external mics; the other two each offer a standard 3. 5mm port for this. Headphone sockets are nowhere to be found across all three bodies, but the optional HLD-8G grip compatible with the E-M5 II does have one built into it.
Olympus OM-D E-M10 II vs E-M5 II vs E-M1 Size and Weight. Unsurprisingly, the most junior E-M10 II model is the lightest of the trio, weighing just 390g with its battery and card in place. The E-M5 II and E-M1, meanwhile, weigh in at 469g and 497g respectively, again with each camera s battery and card. The E-M10 II and E-M5 II aren t that differently sized from each other, with respective measurements of 119. 7mm and 124 x 85 x 45mm, although the E-M1 is significantly bulkier at 130 x 94 x 63mm.
Camera selector tool. AFOY Amateur Filmmaker of the Year competition. Your chance to enter the UK s newest competition for budding amateur filmmakers. 10,000 in prizes to be. Matt Golowczynski July 5, 2016. Handling notes. As with any camera this complex, it requires a considerable amount of time to learn every feature and tune it to your tastes. Olympus OM-D E-M5 II Review. Although I m delighted to see the Super Control Panel finally used as the default interface, I can t escape the feeling that the already over-filled menus can no longer offer an accessible route to configuring the camera.
I m not sure the camera is much harder to pick up and use than any of its peers, but finding all it can do and tailoring it to your needs is a daunting task for anyone who hasn t owned Olympus cameras or spent countless hours studying the user manual. All of this is iq option e seguro helped by some rather odd menu behavior everyone who s used the camera complains that options they thought they d selected hadn t been applied.
The only explanation I can come up with is that there s no visual difference between confirming an option Ok button and cancelling a selection Menu or left button. I can t confirm this suspicion but it s been a common complaint form people who ve used the camera. On top of this, several features, such as High Res mode appear to have been bolted onto the top of an already complex menu system, so the exposure delay modes and choice of file format for that mode is controlled independently of settings for normal stills mode.
Autofocus performance. Our experience with the camera s autofocus has been mixed. Another apparent glitch I ve encountered so far is that focus peaking seems to switch itself off as soon as you press any other button or enter a menu, so it s worth assigning to an easily-accessible button. In single-acquisition mode, the EM-5 II is one of the fastest-to-focus cameras we ve shot with.
This is aided by a lens system almost entirely composed of lenses designed for fast contrast-detection autofocus meaning there is impressive consistency of performance between lenses. The E-M5 II features the 81-point AF system that first appeared in the E-M1, allowing greater precision of focus point selection. Furthermore the camera offers eye-focus if it detects a face in the scene, with the option to focus on the left, right or closest eye. There are more than 800 points on which the camera can focus if you use the rear touchscreen to specify a target.
Eye-detection AF is really impressive the camera is very fast to find and focus on the closest eye, making it easy to rattle off portraits with absolute confidence that the camera will focus in the right place. This then just leaves you to worry about details such as not choosing an aperture setting with too little depth-of-field. Zuiko 75mm F1. 8 ISO 3200, F2. Autofocus tracking is really very impressive.
With most of the system s lenses, the camera will comfortably track the subject around the scene. It will sometimes get distracted by other subjects but usually finds the correct subject again pretty quickly. Its consistency is increased even further if you use the camera s face detection. Two key things to note, to get the best performance from the camera s continuous AF. The first is a reminder that the camera won t continuous autofocus when set to maximum 10fps shooting speed, so you have to use Continuous L mode to get the benefit of its AF capability.
More problematically, the default release priority setting for C-AF mode results in a high number of missed shots. Disengaging this setting Menu Custom Menu C Rls Priority C will greatly improve the camera s hit-rate without having too much of an impact on frame rate. With this setting changed, we were able to achieve iq option e seguro impressively high level of images well focused on the correct subject at a frame rate of around 4fps.
Local Micro Four Thirds shooter James McDaniel with whom we collaborated to create a video about the E-M5 II measured his hit rate at 75 in-focus images, from the 1000 images he shot of roller derby. Our experiences have been consistent with this. 1 Introduction 2 Specs 3 Body and Design 4 High Resolution Mode 5 Video features 6 First Impressions 7 Shooting Experience. 8 Studio Comparison 9 High Resolution Studio Comparison 10 Image Stabilization 11 Handling and AF notes 12 Dynamic Range ISO Invariance 13 Conclusion 14 Samples Gallery.
Still love my OMD-5 Mark 2 after several years, especially its small size and I can interchange lenses with my Lumix GM5 which is even smaller. I m now looking to use my Mark 2 for live-streaming, so I ve been working on removing all overlays on the feed it sends through HDMI out. Anyone has experience doing that. okay, the mark II is so reasonable cheap now because of mark iii release.
i just sold my sony rx10 mark 3 and get brand new combo EM5 mark ii 14-150mm II for just 600 usd good deal yet. I just acquired an E-M5 II and so I turned to this review to start getting acquainted with my new camera. The reviewer, as well as some previous posters in this comment thread, variously refer to a 2x2 control or 2x2 switch or 2x2 lever. I have searched electronically throughout the 186-page official E-M5 Mark II Instruction Manual and it does not contain any reference to a 2x2 switch control lever.
Can anyone please enlighten me to exactly what this is. I suspected that this control is what the reviewer and commenters are referring to. However it is annoying that the official manual does not contain the term 2x2 and that everyone who does use that term appends a different noun, such as lever; control; dial; switch. For what it s worth to try and set the record straight, the Olympus E-M5 Mark II Instruction Manual simply refers to this control as Lever P. Olympus refers to the system as 2x2 but it s a rather non-specific.
Since it relies on the two-position lever switch on the back of the camera, I think I used those two terms in the review. However, since this lever then acts on the function of the dials, Olympus apparently prefers 2x2 dial as its preferred terminology but not in the manual. I ll try to be clearer, if the feature survives onto the next generation of cameras. This is the exact damn problem with Olympus, as you ve pointed out in the review; the Olympus menu system and UX isn t fit to handle a camera this complex.
I reviewed a EM1 before, the thing drove me nuts in 10 minutes. The unclear terminology and baffling choices that Olympus uses to describe the features and UI don t help. I m looking at an E-M5II that s in great price and condition so I m reading the review, but man, this is giving me flashbacks of that time. Until Fuji implements OIS inside the bodies all their budget cameras, they will never compete with anything 4 3 using Prime Glass.
You can talk about sensor size all you like, but what you are going to eat with a Fuji, is the number of shots that are fuzzy because you didnt use their Teles that offer in lens OIS. Therefore, at the end of the day, the best Fuji Jpg, as compared to the Best Pany or Olympus Jpg, is going to be a hair better, only when you pixel peep it into infinity. As that is the reality. In the hand, the Panys and the Olympus, feel good.
Fuji s do not, as they are too heavy, and they are too square and do not sit well in the hand. And once you buy that 18- 55 lens so that your photos no longer all turn out Fuzzy, you then have a nicely unbalanced bar-bell to use to take photos. xh1 one is now 1000. at least in asia. A year later and I still love this camera. 4 years later for me. But it will soon be time for an upgrade.
Great review but there is one thing I find unclear. Richard says that the default autofocus setting should be disengaged to get the best continuous af performance. But what is the default setting. Should RLS Priority C be on or off to get the best performance. Set RLS Priority C to off, that way the camera will wait until it s in focus before firing the shutter.
The slight loss in shooting speed is more than made up for in the increased number of in-focus images, in our experience. Ok thanks Richard, I ll give it a try. I received this camera for review but overtime I rotate the mode dial the camera switches off. Is there a setting to prevent this. OR is this an indication something is faulty. can you recommend me which is better cuz i m confuse choosing the em10 mkii or the em5 mk ii, which is has the better image quality. cuz looking at the conclusion chart it definitely em10 has better jpeg and raw, please help me thankyou.
I will keep my E-M5 as I use the VF4 in the accessory port for macro work, unfortunately the E-M5 II has eliminated this port. I got my EM5 Mark 11 last year and have loved it until yesterday. I picked it up and for some reason, every single photo I take, the entire lower portion maybe 1 8 is missing any information. I have done everything I can think of to trouble shoot what s wrong and come up with nothing. Could the sensor be failing or is it just Operator error. Any suggestions would be wonderful and so appreciated.
I m not sure iq option e seguro meaning of missing any informationbut here is what you can do. set the Image ratio to 4 3 2. Take a photo 3. Do you see any missing portion in the EVF LCD before taking the photo, but not in the photo. the image of the dolphins was shot with a 40-150 f 2. When I use the M5-II in high res mode, I only find a jpeg on the memory card.
I can t seem to get it to save a RAW file. I seem to remember and I could be wrong on thisthat the E-M5 II keeps separate Raw JPEG settings for single images and pixel shift images, so if you switch from one mode to the other, you ll need to re-check whether you have Raw engaged. New 5Mkii user; who cannot determine how to set the metering mode while looking through the EVF.
Metering can only set within the Gears menu, or from the SCP where it is necessary to click on one of the smaller areas, then a thumbwheel can be used to select metering. Either way, I have lost the composition and the shot I wanted. What am I missing or overlooking. Have been using an E-M1 for 6 months where a rocker button on left side brings up the metering so a change can be made without taking eye from the EVF. The rotatable, bounceable flash works nicely in adding a bit of illumination in these dark shooting conditions.
If Olympus would allow access to metering when assigning the Fn button that would accomplish what is needed. My shooting techniques must be flawed. Suggestions please. Am I the only one who frequently changes the light metering when shooting. I don t know if you re technique is flawed but I honestly can t think why you would need to change it so often. Can you give me an example of why you would need to change so much. These don t change very much in a single shoot. Marcus, I change metering to determine which provides the preferred look.
Once I like the overall image, I will shoot other images without changing metering, until encountering another scene with different lighting, then repeat the comparison. I might be experimenting more than necessary while shooting. Still trying to get my sea legs, so to speak. Sorry for the late reply. Well that makes sense, if you re just experimenting to see what fits you.
But once you have an idea, I m sure you ll be changing a lot less. After all, you can get the exact same results with any of the metering modes, it just depends on which one gets you the result you want quicker and more accurately. I dont know if this helps you, but i have assigned AEL to the record button on my E-M10. In the gears menu under point E - Exposure Metering ISO there is the option AEL Metering. I could set it to every Metering mode, which I normally have set to spot metering.
Maybe it works as well in the E-M5 II. I absolutely love my EM-5 II it s a delightful combination of looks, feel, shooting experience, 5-axis stabilisation combined with sharpness of Olympus lenses, hi-res and live comp, compactness with its small primes. I know this is a personal view, but it s worth noting that it has an intangible quality that makes it a delight to own, despite several oddities. Your review is spot-on in most respects, other than the comment on control dial markings seems trivial and out of place, and the live comp feature is not for compositing light and dark image areas, but for recording changes on top of a base image, such as for light trails, astro photography and lightning.
Dark areas of the image will not progressively get brighter. Has anyone else had a problem with the fn1 switch on this camera. The one on my camera failed after 9 months. It seems a bit of a flimsy switch and I am worried it might be a design fault. When I use wifi activation on an iPad I notice that I am able change my focus points from the touch screen of my iPad when shooting stills.
However, I find that i am not able to do this when shooting movies. Is focus pulling possible via the iPad touch screen. Also, is it possible to shoot stills while shooting a movie. If so, what are the settings to make this possible. Can t get wifi activated - everything according to instructions and just get an error message saying it can t find the camera.
It s really a faux wifi feature anyway - it only in theory works to transfer images to your device smartphone, tablet. If you want a full-featured wifi experience - transferring to computer for upload and backup, you ll need to purchase a Mobi or similar card. Very disappointing implementation. Is it me or the M5 II studio image comparision looks softer against the M5. In JPEG a little softer then the old M5 and in RAW even more, look at the top game cards to see it more clearly.
To me, metering depends on lighting situation and also what kind of photos I m taking portraits landscape etc. Is it the diference in shutter speed or what. Not the same lens used. The old FT 50mm f2 macro is sharper than the 45mm f1. I am curious about the 40mp mode. If I were to take a shot of a lake with wind patterns or waves. what would the 40MP image look like. a smeary mess I presume. That would really limit the use of this mode for landscapes.
I imagine clouds wouldn t be as much of and issue as they tend to be smeary already. I have this problem with shooting panoramas and even perfecting the drive mode quick pan doesn t completely fix waves that don t match up. Seems to me the real advantages of the Mark II is the electronic shutter and perhaps the dual IBIS on the new 300mm prime if it was actually priced reasonably.
The EM5 does suffer badly from shutter shock if you are not careful. I would also like the articulating display, but mostly so I can turn the LCD side to face in when not using it. They get damaged really easily. If Oly could write a firmware patch to add electronic shutter to the EM5 MkI I would be very happy indeed. Little chance of that I think but there is also little chance I would upgrade my EM5 to another OMD either.
It s not just smeary, it produces a weird checkerboard pattern. There are examples of it in this review when they discuss the mode. I received this EM5. The Olympus menu system is still as bad as my EM5. So does the WiFi remote control functions which are as bad as you can get too. When I got M1, I thought the bad menu system is caused by Oly s first attempt to build the OMD camera.
Now I know Oly is really do not know how a decent menu system works. In terms of function, I still do not understand why Oly fixed HDR to ISO 200, also the HDR is the worst compare to other camera I own. Plus other issues. Too much to list. Oh, the Grip is larger than M1, but I do not feel any better. Olympus really need to hire some one who knows usability.
I wish Oly will soon release a new firmware to fix its menu system, direct control, WiFi, as well as other functions. Other than that M2 is better than M1. Agree with you on the grip. I got used to it, but I think the grip of the Mark I was better than the grip of the Mark II. But that s about it, everything else is better than the Mark I, so no big deal. I also agree that the menu is not great, but it s really not that bad either. In the end, you don t need the menu much anyway.
The awesome super control panel and the physical give you pretty much all iq option e seguro control you need without ever going into the menues. So, the whole Oly menus are bad complains are way too exaggerated in my eyes. And not the most important thing for sure. What counts is performance, image quality, image stabilization, control, lenses to choose, etc and that s all excellent.
But I love my OM-D E-M5 Mark IIit s a very good camera. As I said Other than that M2 is better than M1better IBIS and shutter. SCP is not an answer for usability, but make direct control access more usable such as. - Oly should make dual dial more usable, I assign Flash to one of the 4 way button, after I press this button, I can use real dial to select Flash mode, but why NOT lets us to use front dial to change the Flash intensity.
- Why we only can assign functions to two of the 4-way dial. - We can not do too much for the 2x2 switch too b c they are more less per-defind by Oly already. - I still do not understand why fix the ISO to 200 for HDR. - It has HDR1 and HDR2, why can not let the HDR button to select the HDRs such as HDR1 - HDR2 - OFF. One more thing, the M2 is not very stable, I need to take the battery out and re-insert to get some function back such as.
- Selecting Flash in SCP has no response as it is greyed out. - Can not select RAW any more as it is greyed out. - Can not release shutter by touch. I do not think my copy is a bad one. I also have to cold restart to make the camera work again on my other Oly cam, but my other Oly only stuck two times so far while using HDR in years with more than 5K shots. Anyway, I m looking for the add-on grip.
Did you ever solve the problem with RAW being greyed out. I can t seem to select raw only anymore either. I m not sure the root cause of your can t seem to select raw only anymore either. Fully-articulated screen great for video. I would love it if this mythology would be laid to rest forever. Yes, perhaps that is the majority use, but it steers manufacturers into stereotyping camera users. I often use the viewfinder for video, it is easier to track birds in flight, butterflies, etc.than looking back and forth from subject to LCD, and is steadier in hand held telephoto mode.
I use the articulated LCD all the time for stills to extent my range of perspective, as well as for close ups. I also fold the LCD side in when hiking, climbing or walking, exposing only a rugged metal surface to zippers and gear, as opposed to the delicate surface coatings on fixed LCD screens. What happened to the noise reduction comparison section of the review.
Be careful, they have flip screen problem. Just after a month, flip screen took off from the body. My friends also have same problem. I would like to post pictures if possible. But I don t know how in here. But speaking in general, all the functions will be functional again by resting the camera. You can post pictures in DPReview s Forum, and post a link here. Having owned the original version since its release, all I can say is that I hope that there s been some massive revision of the truly abominable ergonomics of this camera.
Mine seems to be in some different and unwanted mode every time I deploy it on account of its handling characteristics. The track buttons are all but impossible to use - even moving the cursor around is a trial. I ve lost count of the number of shots I ve lost because of this terrible design. Horrible minute, numb buttons. And then the s the masterpiece of mal-designed fimware.
Extensively customisable is a good way of obscuring this muddle. I have the original EM5, two EM1s, and bought one of the first EM5-2s my dealer received. I use them mostly with 4 3 lenses and MMF3 adapters, relatively big and heavy, but incredible performance. They shoot everything from handheld concerts in dim light, to the Oregon Food Bank s Waterfront Blues Festival, to highly critical microphotography of subjects blown up from their 1-mm size to 20 x30.
They have been wonderful in most aspects, the EM5-5 excelling in work where I can use the high resolution setting in particular. Things I would like to change The front dial, around the shutter button, turns much too easily, like the original Canon AE-1s shutter dial did. I ve been at this a while. Shooting photojournalistically with multiple cameras, if I let one camera hang while using another body lens, just contacting my shirt is enough to change the settings on that front dial, with or without the motor drive attachment.
Otherwise, they re better than you. And the menu is Byzantine. I am an experienced part-time pro. I agree with the enthusiastic findings of the most trusted on-line reviewers. For the last month, I have been testing my new E-M5II outdoors and in my home studio photographing landscapes, architecture, nature and small products. With the 60mm macro, 12-40mm, and 40-150mm f 2. 8 weatherized lenses, the 1. 4x teleconveter and the two-piece grip, the E-M5II can handle a lot of professional work while offering a very enjoyable shooting experience.
Even cropping down to 12Mp, I can make impeccable prints up to 24x36 up to ISO1600 Raw developed in DxO Optics Pro, processed in Photoshop and upsized with Perfect Resize. I find that criticizing this camera without hands-on experience is meaningless and that one needs to be an advanced photographer to master its more sophisticated features. Otherwise, one would do better considering an E-M10, possibly with the slower, smaller M4 3 lenses such as the very good Pana 12-32mm f 3.
6 and 35-100mm f 4-5. So OK I rented an EM5 II, no manual, so forgive me if this is posted somewhere. Having problems with live view in one case. Using shutter priority, auto-iso. When exposed properly live view seems to accurately represent what the resultant image should look like. But when I crank the SS up or down past the rails into an area which the camera can t expose the image properly, the f-stop display blinks accordingly telling me the exposure is either over or under exposed as it should.
Problem is, the live-view display still looks great which is really misleading. Histogram looks fine as well. I can crank an indoor exposure to set my ss at an 8000th of a second and the live view looks wonderful. Of course, when I take the picture and look at the resultant image, it s way too dark as you might expect. Seems the live view is stuck at good exposure regardless of what the ss is set at. Other cameras I use don t do this.
simply change the live view mode. You can download the camera PDF manual at Olympus website. Can you be more specific on how exactly to change the live view mode. What do you mean by that. I often have the same problem with it not accurately displaying what my final image shows. I just picked up the M5 Markii and my question is this. Shooting in manual using live view whenever I change settings the image displayed remains the same regardless of changing iso aperture or shutter speed.
However, the image I capture certainly changes as I change settings. I just want the image displayed through live view to change as I change settings manually. Does this make any sense at all. I come from shooting with canon using live view and zoom in to focus 100 manual everything. I m sure there has got to be a fix for this and I simply haven t figured it out yet. Someone anyone.
All 7 SEVEN E-M5IIs i held im my hands in different camera stores in Germany and in Switzerland had the same issue - wobbly and misalinged it is not parallel to the top of the camera program mode dial on the left camera shoulder. You can see the problem if you hold the camera at your eyes level and press with your finger on the dial - it is moving up and down. Has somebody else seen this. Is it just a bad camera batch delivered to Germany and Switzerland.
The same dial on E-M5 is rock solid. Mine is level and firm, no problems. Might have been a bad batch, I m in Australia. Janneman I bought this camera early spring and was shocked to find out a feature not even one single professional reviewer seemed to have noticed. From standby it takes 2 to 3 seconds to activate the camera for a new shot. This makes it in my opnion totally unfit for a lot of photographers.
So far nobody has come up with a solution. The only way to get around this problem is keeping it atcivated. This can be done by 1. using live view 2. pressing the button half constantly. Another option is turning it off because then the start is much quicker. I do use the extra handgrip. Another problem I met is that the Main Control Panel does not work as expected.
If you want to change an item it seems very regularly changing the focus field alone. I hope Olympus will soon come up with a solution or else I am forced to buy another camera for this really does not work with me. Maybe you should have researched the issue a little further. But it makes the camera, as you observed, slower to wake up. The camera has a quick sleep mode, I think it s on by default, and it tries to conserve power since mirrorless cameras go through batteries fairly quickly.
It can be deactivated. Menu - Custom menu gears icon - K utility - Quick Sleep Mode - OFF. So save your money and enjoy the camera again. Not sure what you mean by focus field so can t help you out with that. Thank you Bluevellet, I will try when the camera is back from repair. Strange that nobody came up with this suggestion. The slow activation however remains but will occur less frequently and I will have to take along extra batteries. About the Control Panel I meant the field with which you can change the focus area by moving a pointer, it is positioned below WB Auto.
I assume the main dial is dedicated to this field and has to changed in the menu. Blue Velvet the quick sleep mode is standard OFF so that is no solution for the slow activation, I changed the release lag time from normal to short but the problem still remains. The question has been brought to the attention of Olympus Holland many times but no reaction. My advice to future buyers would be THINK TWICE.
I ve owned this camera for a month, and while the silver award is disappointing, I mostly agree with the rest of the review. Except for 3 con pros. - C-AF is actually not that good, even with DPR s recommended settings. The camera can track but it doesn t mean it has the subject in focus when it s time to take the photo.
I get much less than the 75 hit rate. S-AF is fine though and I mostly rely on it instead of C-AF. - Buffer is too small. It s a shame because the frame rate can be really fast. It just fills up so quickly. - I think unless you re a professional videographer, the video here is excellent. Less than a second with JPEG RAW. 1080P at 60fps is great to begin with, but the spooky stable IBIS takes it to another level.
improved C-AF YES. easily Trumps EM1 Video focusing Broken by Design. E-M1 has worst C-AF which is really non existent, Olympus should be Vary embarrassed. on top of that 2015 Olympus still stuck in 30fps Video is hard to believe. but then this cool little E-M5 MK II came along with much welcome 10. 80P at 60Fps. and as far as stills go. i m hearing people on DP wondering where quality I.
Q Samples are. i say to those People. Do yourself a favor go look on flickr, i v seen some pretty wicked E-M5 Mark II shots there. sure some doctored in light room. others Not not at ALL. Many vary nice right out of the E-M5 MK II Jpeg s as well. in fact there s a shot with a little boy standing on a small bridge that shot is Beyond Beautiful. colors really pop razor sharp even with aperture wide open at f 1. having the Nocticron 42. 2 didn t hurt either. Talk about Macro with the Olympus 60mm f 2.
This is really a Vary capable Nice looking little Camera Silver. I m really enjoying this one, using only the PRO lenses as recommended by some other enthusiast friends. It is certainly a huge WOW - beats my Nikon 90mm recently gave up my Nikon for weight and bulk. The lovely wee 60mm mentioneed above is not PROhowever, it is an incredibly sweet lens, that I bought on the spot once looking at it. This little small and compact OMD EM5 Mark II doesn t live up to it hypes.
I have it in about one month and half, and die. The camera turn on with fully charge battery and no power is on. At first I switch the lever between Fn1 and Fn2 to change my setting, it makes a clunking sound while pressing on the shutter. I take out the battery and recharge again, put the battery back in and no power. It allows you to take a picture but with LCD screen and viewfinder black out. I have only one battery so I sure if the battery cause the problem or the camera itself.
Now, I have ship the camera back to Olympus for repair and have not hear back. I am very disappointed and might be my last Olympus camera. You just have a dud, get it changed. Yea what he SAID SSantana is Right. I moved to Olympus OMD EM5ii from shooting Nikon both full frame and cropped bodies for a couple of years.
I also purchased the Sony A6000 at the same time to try, which instantly became my everyday camera. I loved Sony so much that researched and bought the new Sony A7ii with some nice native lenses. My dilemma is that although I love the Olympus OMD EM5ii and think that s one of the best cameras I have ever used in terms of performance, I have never been able to achieve the same IQ and sharpness I get from Sony A6000 with a cheap 50mm 1. 8 lens I have Olympus 12mm, 25mm, 45mm, 60mm Macro, 75mm, 12-40mm PRO.
Is it due to the mere sensor size, user error, or am I missing something here.
Coments:18.04.2020 : 22:29 Turr:
Where I live the Iq option e seguro is slightly cheaper than the 5 II. Apart from the high res mode, is there any other thing where the 5 II is better than the 1.